We sew a knitted pullover with a secret: model 106 from Burda 1/2018

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A simple, straight-knit pullover with a secret - a drop-shaped incision and unusual drapery were made on the back. With our instructions, and you will cope with all the stages of tailoring our pullover.

Sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44

Back length approx. 62 cm.

You will need:

Elastic knitted fabric 1.85-1.85-1.90-0.90-1.90 m wide 140 cm; non-woven G 785.

Recommended fabrics:

only bielastic, thin, softly draped knitted or crocheted fabrics.

Pullover pattern

Tear-shaped pullover on the back

Magazine: Burda 1 / 2018Style: 106Sizes: 36 - 44Direct pullover, quite modest in front, causes delight in couture drapery and a drop-shaped ... 200 r. Add to cart Straight pullover, quite modest in front, delights with couture drapery and teardrop-shaped ...
Glue the sheets of the paper pattern and cut out the details of the required size along the corresponding contour lines, paying attention to the marking and inscriptions.
Put the details of the paper pattern on the knitted fabric according to the layout plan and pin it. Draw detail "a" directly on the knitted fabric.
If you want to save the pattern, transfer it to tracing paper and cut out the details of the paper pattern.

Allowances:

For seams and cuts - 1.5 cm, for hemming the bottom of the sleeves - 2 cm, hemming the bottom of the pullover - 3 cm.

Layout and layout:

21 Before with 1x fold
22 Left side of the back 1x
23 The right side of the back, one-piece with draping detail 1x
24 Grinding draped backrest 1x
25 Grinding the right side of the back 1x
26 Sleeve 2x
a) neckline length 64−65−66−67−68−68 cm and a width of 4 cm, including allowances.

Gasket:

press strip strips 2 cm wide to allowances at the edges of the cutout of the left side of the back (part 22) and the right side of the back, one-piece with draping part (part 23). In addition, iron a flap of a 3 x 3 cm size onto the left side of the back over the end of the back section (back side).

Seam lines and marking:

The contours of all the details of the pattern (seam and bottom lines), as well as all lines and cross marks marked on the details of the paper pattern, should be transferred to the wrong side of the cut parts from the main and lining fabrics using a gear wheel (cutter) and carbon paper (see the manufacturer's instructions) . On the left side of the back of the alignment line, transfer to the front side with large counting stitches.

Methods for marking the details of the pattern on the fabric

When sweeping and grinding, fold the parts of the cut with the front side inwards. Sew seams with a special elastic stitch or narrow zigzag stitch. At the beginning and at the end of each seam, fasten. Overcast seam allowances with elastic zigzag or overlock stitches.

Drapable back detail

Place the drape of the draped back part (part 24) on the right side of the back with the right side facing the front side, chop off the longitudinal sections, sew side sections from the transverse mark, lay a line along the middle of the back from the cut mark.

Cut the side seam allowances at the transverse mark (arrow). Unscrew the obtachka on the wrong side, iron the edges. Sweep oblique sections of the draped part and side sections.

Middle back seam / left edge

Place the left side of the back on the right side of the back with the front side to the front side. Stitch middle cuts from top to cut mark.

The allowance for the left side of the back at the lower end of the cut is to be cut exactly into the corner (arrow). Iron seam allowances.

Iron the oversize along the edge of the cut of the left side of the back to the wrong side, double up and sweep.

Grinding the right side of the back / right edge of the cut

Pin the edge of the cut in the right side of the back (part 25) from the wrong side to the edge of the right side of the back cut with the front side to the front side, check mark 3.

Lay a line between the notch marks; above the notch mark, grind the grind to the middle seam allowance along the back, close to the seam. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch. Unscrew the trim on the right side of the back with the wrong side to the wrong side. Sweep the edge of the cut and iron.

Sweep the hem and back along the sections of the armholes, necks and shoulder sections.

Transverse seam lying inside

Sweep the lower cut of the right side of the back to the upper cut of the draped part with the wrong side to the wrong side, control mark 2. Pin the upper cut of the left side of the back to the hem from the corner, face to the front, control mark 2, line from the corner to the side cut . Overcast seam allowances together and iron down.

Sew knitwear: little tricks and tips

Slot

Stitch the edges of the cut at a distance of 5 mm (9).

Take draped part

Fold the draping part of the back along the fold line with the wrong side inwards, and take the open end of the draping part along the line of alignment to the left side cut of the back (control mark 5).

Shoulder and side seams

Perform shoulder and side seams, check marks 1 and 6, securing the draped part in the left side seam. Overcast seam allowances together. Iron the shoulder seam allowances on the back, the side seam allowances on the front.

Neckline

Stitch short sections of the neckline with the front sides. Fold the neckline along in half with the wrong side inward and iron. Stitch the longitudinal sections of the neckline together, stretching to the neckline section, aligning the neckline seam with the middle seam along the back. Overcast seam allowances together.

Throat Slit Sleeves

Run the seams of the sleeves, check mark 7, leaving the openings in the seams. Neaten seams from the lower sections of the sleeves and ironed to a length of approx. 8 cm, then overcast allowances of each seam together. Stitch sleeves, check mark 8.

Bending the bottom of the pullover and sleeves

Iron the allowances for hemming the bottom of the pullover and sleeves to the wrong side, sew with a double needle on the front side: allowances for hemming the bottom of the sleeves - at a distance of 1.8 cm, allowance for hemming the bottom of the pullover - at a distance of 2.8 cm.