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Today narrow silhouettes are in fashion, which means that everything should sit perfectly! However, if the shoulders are not quite straight, ugly transverse folds will inevitably form on jackets and blouses under the armholes.
We will tell you how to change the pattern in this case.Even if you took the measurements correctly, you can make sure that the shoulder line on this pattern matches yours, you can only when trying on. However, faced with a problem, you can choose one of two options for solving it: adjust the shoulder line directly on the product or make changes to the details of the paper pattern.
We will tell you how to do both. However, with slightly sloping shoulders, it is better not to change anything at all, but simply to put small shoulder pads.
Product adjustment when trying
Stitch excess tissue along the shoulder seam from the armhole to the neck as a tuck and lay a new stitch. In order for the armhole size to remain the same, deepen it below by the same number of centimeters (see Figures 1 and 1a).
Correction of a paper pattern
The shoulders are symmetrical.
On the front and back, place a mark on the armhole of the new shoulder line and draw it. In order for the armhole size to remain the same, deepen it below by the same number of centimeters (Figures 1 and 1a).
The shoulders are asymmetrical.
In this case, the adjustment is done differently.If necessary, retake the details of the front and back from the sheet of patterns twice and glue along the lines of the middle. Those halves of the front and back, where the shoulder is more sloping, should be shortened.
We will show how this is done using the example of the left shoulder.
On the front and back patterns, draw an auxiliary (dashed) line from the line of the left side seam to the deepest point of the right half of the neck (Figure 2).
Cut each detail of the pattern along a drawn line from the line of the side seam to the neck. At the side seam line, lay sections on each other (on the front and back by the same amount!). Align the lines of the side seams on the front and back by cutting off the excess paper (Figure 3).
Important: as a result of adjusting the half of the patterns, the front and backs will be asymmetric, so the fabric for cutting should be laid out in one layer.
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